Thinking about the best restaurants in Buenos Aires is an arduous task, as the city is a tantalizing affair with appeal for all palates. Though asado is the supermodel of the Argentine dinner menu, those with culinary curiosity have much more to enjoy than meat. The historic intermingling of cultures in Argentina created a melee of world flavors ranging from unapologetically Latin American to European fare. The Italians brought the pizza, pasta, and milanesa; empanadas are souvenirs from the Spanish, and desserts are regularly sweetened with generous helpings of dulce de leche, the origins of which remain a sweet mystery. Today, dining in the city of good airs is delectable work. 

 

In terms of bars, Buenos Aires was made for hedonists. This city knows how to enjoy itself at all hours, and there’s something for everyone, particularly night owls. If you’re merrymaking with Porteños (as Buenos Aires residents are called), there’s a very good chance the earliest rays of sun will beat you home. Boliches (nightclubs) don’t truly sizzle until 2 AM, and there are watering holes on every corner, luring in passersby for Malbec and/or madness. Whatever you’re in the mood for, there’s a spot for you. 

 

Bookmark this list because it’s your definitive guide to the most delightful bars and the best restaurants in Buenos Aires.

 

 

WHAT TO EAT IN BUENOS AIRES

 

Asado

Asado (barbecue) is a national institution. Head to a parilla (grill) and order what might be the best steak of your life. If you’d rather not commit to one dish, order a parillada (mixed grill) which may include chinchulines (intestines), riñones (kidneys) and morcilla (blood sausage). Mouth-watering cuts you can order include ojo de bife (rib eye), bife de chorizo (sirloin steak or New York strip), bondiola (pork shoulder), bife ancho (prime rib), entraña (skirt steak), tira de asado (short ribs), lomo (tenderloin) or cuadril (rump steak).

 

To get your steak just as you like it, request yours vuelta vuelta (very bloody and blue, having barely hit the pan), jugoso or termino medo (medium rare), a punto (medium yet still pink and not so juicy), pasado de punto (medium to well done), cocido (well done), or bien cocido (charred to infinity).

 

 

Dulce de leche

Similar to caramel, dulce de leche is a delectable confection made by heating sweetened milk. You can slather it onto bread or bake with it. It’s available in every supermarket, or you can head straight to the source – any branch of La Casa de Dulce de Leche – to buy specialty brands.

 

Alfajores

Chow down on alfajores, crumbly shortbread-type biscuits with a heavenly central layer of dulce de leche. These sweet cookies are a breakfast staple in Buenos Aires and a popular confection throughout Latin America.

 

Medialunas and facturas

For breakfast and tea time (la merienda), Porteños enjoy medialunas and facturas, which translate to ‘half moons’ and ‘receipts’. Medialunas are petite croissant-esque pastries in the shape of a crescent moon and facturas are buttery and flaky. They’re consumed solo or with a variety of unique fillings. Pastry names in Argentina may tickle and confound you as the baker’s union christened many with anti-church and anti-establishment names after a strike for better working conditions. While in Buenos Aires, also try cañoncitos (little cannons) and bolas de fraile (friar’s balls) or dulce de leche-filled suspiras de monja (nun’s sighs).

 

Choripán

The city’s favourite street food, choripán is a chorizo sausage sandwich (chorizo + pan or bread). It could very well be considered Argentina’s version of the hot dog, and it’s usually drizzled with chimichurri sauce, a brilliant herb infusion. Also, be on the lookout for morcipán, a blood sausage sandwich, which tastes much better than it sounds.

 

 

Milanesa

Milanesa is akin to the schnitzel and it’s an Italian import. This is a breaded meat cutlet (beef, chicken or veal) covered with toppings ranging from cheese, ham and tomato sauce.

 

Pizza

A strong Italian influence in Buenos Aires means pizza is big business. You can also find some uniquely Argentine pizzas here like fugazza, a cheese-free pizza with thick dough that doesn’t go easy on the onions. Those who simply can’t do without their queso can opt for a fugazetta instead, which is a fugazza topped with cheese or a fugazetta rellena (filled).

 

Empanadas

These are little pastries that are stuffed with meat, cheese, or vegetables, and they’re eaten all over Latin America. They make a very affordable, fuss-free snack. Salta, in the north of Argentina, claims to be the birthplace of the empanada. Salteñas are impossibly juicy and can be found all around Buenos Aires.

 

 

WHAT TO DRINK IN BUENOS AIRES

 

Mate

Most homes you visit will have telltale signs of mate consumption. Mate is a bitter, invigorating, caffeinated green tea made from the yerba mate plant and drunk from a shared metal gourd. It’s consumed anywhere at any time, and it’s a staunchly Argentine custom.

 

Fernet con Cola

Fernet-Branca was once used to treat cholera. It originated in Italy in the mid-19th century, but it’s Argentina’s preferred liqueur, accounting for 75% of the world’s global consumption. It’s dark brown, medicinal-tasting, and drunk with Coke. The full ingredient list is secret, but it includes saffron, rhubarb, and biblical myrrh.

 

 

PLACES TO EAT IN BUENOS AIRES

 

PLACES TO EAT STEAK IN BUENOS AIRES (PARILLAS)

Though there’s more to life than just asado in Buenos Aires, it’s a good place to start.

 

Campobravo

No list of Buenos Aires food eateries would be complete without mentioning the Palermo sub-barrio of Las Cañitas, a few restaurant-laden and leafy blocks. Here, on one of its bustling corners, is where you’ll find this classy steakhouse. Campobravo actually has two branches in Palermo. Both are corner-side restaurants with outdoor seating for people-watching. If you dare, why not try the chinchulines (intestines)?

Báez 292 and Honduras 5600, Palermo

 

 

La Brigada

Meat so tender you can cut it with a spoon? The rumours are true about La Brigada in San Telmo. If you won’t take our word for it, watch ‘Todo Sobre el Asado’, the Netflix documentary dedicated to all things steak in Argentina. Herein, owner Hugo Echevarrieta demonstrates this extreme tenderness and fulfils all meat fantasies in one fell swoop.

Estados Unidos 465, San Telmo

 

Hierro Parilla

You’ll never believe that one of the highest-ranked Buenos Aires restaurants on TripAdvisor is actually a food stand inside San Telmo Market. The sirloin steak alone has its own little army of fans. Come here to source sustenance at affordable prices.

Bolivar 970, San Telmo

 

El Pobre Luis

When you’re after the cheesy deliciousness that is the pamplona (chicken stuffed with mozzarella, ham, smoked bacon, bell peppers, and spices), there is only one place you should think of, and that’s El Pobre Luis.

Arribeños 2393, Belgrano

 

 

Siga La Vaca

Eat to your heart’s content at Siga La Vaca in Puerto Madero. For a set price, you can enjoy all the meat in the world, including one large beer or a bottle of wine. This is perfect if you’d like to try a bit of everything, don’t know what to order, and wish to let your eyes do the talking. There are three branches of Siga La Vaca, but only the Puerto Madero outpost has the all-you-can-eat (tenedor libre) option.

Av. Alicia Moreau de Justo 1714, Puerto Madero

 

Lo de Charly

When in need of a 24-hour parilla, Lo de Charly is your best bet. Their slogan is “where the fire never goes out,” and that’s no lie; the grill hasn’t been turned off since 1991. This steakhouse is the very definition of no-frills, with plastic chairs splashed across a wide outdoor seating area.

Av. Alvarez Thomas 2101, Villa Urquiza

 

Lo de Mary

You probably wouldn’t find yourself here unless tipped off by a SUBTE card-holding Porteño. The unassuming atmosphere and intimate setting keep bringing the locals back.

Humahuaca 4099, Balvanera

 

La Cabrera

Get your meaty delights at La Cabrera, which is a noteworthy steakhouse in Palermo (go for happy hour). There are also branches in Paraguay, Chile, Mexico, the Philippines, and the United States. 

José A. Cabrera 5099, Palermo

 

 

Desnivel

San Telmo steakhouse Desnivel has built quite a reputation for itself internationally. Depending on where the wind blows, your steak may be magnificent or mediocre. Either way, the service is great, albeit rushed on weekends. Revel in the wafting asado fumes and the accents of the locals and travelers who fill the tables.

Defensa 855, San Telmo

 

AFFORDABLE AND FAST FOOD PLACES IN BUENOS AIRES

 

Monday Como y Sigo

Pop into this bright café restaurant for a quick meal and to stare at Congreso Nacional, the home of Argentine national legislature. This neoclassical building took almost 50 years to complete and it was modelled on the Capitol building. Monday Como y Sigo is right opposite Congreso and Plaza del Congreso, a wedge of grass with fountains, benches, and statues. A few meters down in Plaza Mariano Moreno, Rodin’s ‘The Thinker” statue is a scenic photo op too.

Av. Callao 3, Congreso

 

 

NOLA

When you enter NOLA, the first thing you see is the kitchen to the left, where chefs are preparing colossal fusion dishes like fried chicken with kimchi. NOLA does great chicken, whether it’s fried pieces or a mouth-watering burger you’re after. This Louisiana-style gastro pub is an unassuming and friendly place where the good times (and craft beer) flow. There’s no table service, so you order and pay at the bar and wait for your name to be called. You can pay by card as well (even foreign ones).

Gorriti 4389, Palermo

 

Be Frika

For a fast-food chain, Be Frika has a surprisingly good ojo de bife (rib-eye). Tuck into breaded shrimp, mozzarella sticks, juicy burgers, battered langoustines, and much more at this Recoleta spot.

Larrea 1535, Recoleta

 

 

Club Social General Alvear

Not to be confused with Alvear Palace, Club Social General Alvear is a laidback, no-frills bodegón in Palermo. There’s little in the way of decoration, prices are attractive and portions are generous. Forget about the diet that day.

Silvio L. Ruggieri 2736, Palermo

 

La Conga

The gargantuan portions set La Conga apart from most places you’ll have the pleasure of dining at. Catering to a largely Peruvian crowd, La Conga is a pollería (chicken restaurant) in the Once neighborhood. There are so many things they do well besides chicken, however – mountains of ceviche, mountains of rice, and mountains of seafood dishes to name a few. Eat here before heading to Ciudad Cultural Konex for La Bomba de Tiempo, the undisputed owner of Monday evenings in Buenos Aires, but don’t fill up too much so you can still dance.

La Rioja 39, Once

 

 

El Obrero

Diego Maradona was a regular at this bodegón. El Obrero (the working man) is a convenient dining spot if you’re going to La Boca for a game at La Bombonera stadium or to Caminito, Buenos Aires’ outdoor museum walkway and primary color dream. Just make sure you don’t wear a River football shirt.

Agustín R. Caffarena 64, La Boca

 

Don Ignacio

Don Ignacio in Almagro is the self-titled ‘king of milanesas’ (el rey de las milanesas). Arrive hungry; the milanesa will definitely extend beyond the border of your plate.

Av. Rivadavia 3439, Almagro

 

PLACES TO EAT CHORIPÁN IN BUENOS AIRES

 

Dogg

At Dogg, choripán gets a gourmet makeover. Heavenly beef sausages can be bathed with a dozen different toppings including sweet chili, guacamole, cream cheese, sauerkraut, or crispy bacon. There are Aberdeen Angus burgers too.

Various

 

 

La Choripanería

With a name like La Choripanería, you can expect the choripán here to score top marks. There is a branch within the Mercado de San Telmo, and it’s a draw for visitors and locals alike. Try the ‘Blue’ lamb sausage sandwich with spinach and blue cheese. There are also craft mixed drinks, international beers, and even a mini Maradona shrine.

Bolívar 954 (San Telmo) and Armenia 1744 (Palermo)

 

 

Parilla lo de Freddy/ Nuestra Parilla 

Lo de Freddy is less restaurant, more hole-in-the-wall grill with bar stools. Select your preferred cut from the grill right in front of you and loiter around the bar or outside to eat. It’s in Mercado de San Telmo and a well-known, low-key hangout spot. It also goes by two names: Nuestra Parilla and Lo De Freddy. The grill master Freddy seems to make up the opening hours as he goes along, but when you catch him, you won’t be sorry. Anytime after 11 AM is a relatively reliable estimate.

Bolívar 950, San Telmo

 

Chori

Chori in Palermo is casual, hip, and lively with bright yellow walls. Many restaurants in Buenos Aires close for siesta (between 3 PM and 8 PM), but Chori is thankfully not one of them. Come here for the perfect meal on the move or stay put and enjoy a customised gin and tonic. Vegetarians can get an aubergine, goat’s cheese, and spinach sandwich.

Thames 1653, Palermo

 

 

GREAT PLACES FOR EMPANADAS IN BUENOS AIRES

 

El Hornero 

Seek out El Hornero in a corner of Mercado de San Telmo for some of the best empanadas on this side of Salta. They’re freshly baked and adequately stuffed, the kind of empanadas that locals will tell you to eat with “gambas abiertas” or with your legs open to sidestep drips. Napkins at the ready.

Carlos Calvo 455, San Telmo

 

Keller Serrano

Not all beef empanadas are created equal. There are empanadas with “carne picada” (ground beef) and “empanadas de carne cortada a cuchillo” (empanadas of meat cut with a knife). For the latter, head to Keller Serrano in Palermo’s Plaza Serrano (now officially called Plazoleta Julio Cortázar). If you heed one piece of advice from this article, it’s that you should march there and order the entraña empanadas. There are real chunks of juicy entrails and a sauce that explodes as you pierce through the outer layer. Don’t say you weren’t told.

Serrano 1598, Palermo

 

 

 

GREAT PIZZERIAS IN BUENOS AIRES

 

La Mezzetta

Pizza worshipers will tell you to go to La Mezzetta where there are only four cheese-oozing pizza varieties: marvelous muzzarella, phenomenal fugazzetta, delicious napolitana, and anchovies (anchoas). This place has been standing since 1939 and it’s a standing-only venue. According to an urban legend around these parts, consuming your pizza standing up somehow makes it taste better.

Av. Álvarez Thomas 1321, Villa Ortúzar

 

 

El Cuartito

Owing to its Italian connection, one can expect to find some of the most tantalizing (and surprising) pizzas in the world in Buenos Aires. Get a slice of pizza de molde (pizza in the pan), a thick, spongy pizza bubbling with piping hot cheese, at El Cuartito. It’s been sizzling since 1934 and Diego Maradona allegedly once ate 14 portions of pizza there in one sitting.

Talcahuano 937, Centro

 

Pizzería Güerrin

Buenos Aires has an unofficial ‘Pizza Street’. Avenida Corrientes was the location of Muza5k, a “marathon” that saw 400 “runners” descend onto each pizzeria for one slice. Güerrin is one such stop and it’s known for its mozzarella pizzas and fugazza, a caramelized onion-rich Argentine take on focaccia. 

Corrientes 1368, Centro

 

Kentucky Pizzería

Kentucky has seemingly infiltrated every Buenos Aires street corner. With more than 25 branches all over the city, it shouldn’t be hard to track one down for pizza al corte (by the slice). These are waiter-less venues with fast service, and several branches are open 24 hours on Friday and Saturday to cater to the party crowd. Do yourself a favor and have a fugazetta rellena (filled).

 

 

Why is a pizza joint in Argentina named after the state of Kentucky, you ask? A group of friends got lucky betting on the horses at the Hipódromo de Palermo racetrack and decided to open up a pizzeria with their winnings. They named it after the Kentucky Derby to pay homage to that fortunate gamble.

Various

 

GREAT HIGH-END FINE DINING RESTAURANTS IN BUENOS AIRES

 

Don Julio

Don Julio made it onto the list of the 50 best restaurants in Latin America, and it’s Buenos Aires’ most famous upscale steakhouse. What hits your table here are plates of top grass-fed Aberdeen Angus and Hereford steers that were raised in the nearby humid pampas (grassland). A displayed quote reminds diners that “life is too short to drink bad wine,” so expect an extensive wine selection and don’t forget to sign your empty bottle to join their customer wall of fame.

Guatemala 4691, Palermo

 

 

El Mercado at Faena

Faena is a member of Leading Hotels of the World. This Phillipe Starck-designed powerhouse hotel draws the fashionable crowd to Puerto Madero. Enjoy classic Argentinian cuisine at El Mercado, one of several restaurants within the hotel (you’d better like the color red). The Faena pool is one of the most iconic in the city, with its burgundy lounge chairs and a crown fountain in the water. There are light bites available at the pool bar too.

Martha Salotti 445, Puerto Madero

 

L’Orangerie at Alvear Palace

Elaborate, elegant, and enjoyable. Indulge in afternoon tea or a lunch buffet under the crystal chandeliers of L’Orangerie at the Alvear Palace Hotel. You can expect world-class service from white-gloved waiters at this glamorous 5-star hotel, which has simply won too many awards to count.

Av. Alvear 1891, Recoleta

 

 

Casa Cavia

Put your glad rags on to rub shoulders with the city’s cheto (posh) crowd and dine well at Casa Cavia, a beautifully restored Belle Époque house in the well-heeled enclave of Palermo. It is, in essence, an immersive experience celebrating the excellence of Argentina. Well-respected talents from the worlds of architecture, art, literature, and gastronomy were summoned by Casa Cavia’s creative director to put together this restaurant-cum-book store-cum-publishing house-cum-flower shop-cum garden hybrid. There’s valet parking too, of course.

Cavia 2985, Palermo

 

 

Chila 

Chila has also graced the list of 50 best restaurants in Latin America. To call the offerings here innovative would be an understatement. A fixation with detail has led to an outstanding tasting menu with dishes you want to study and then devour, just as pretty as they are palatable. There’s eccentric garnishing and presentation too; a hibiscus box, well-manicured fish bones, and tableware fashioned from eggshells. The view of the water in Puerto Madero isn’t too shabby either.

Av. Alicia Moreau de Justo 1160, Puerto Madero

 

 

VEGAN AND VEGETARIAN RESTAURANTS

Herbivores needn’t go hungry in this carnivorous capital.

 

Hierbabuena

Avenida Caseros is a lovely culinary corner where the neighborhoods of San Telmo and Barracas meet. It’s here you’ll find Hierbabuena which is vegan-friendly and serves kombucha alongside creatively fashioned organic produce. Hierbabuena is flexible vegetarian; coeliacs and vegans are well catered for but there are also rogue chicken and salmon dishes.

Av. Caseros 454 , San Telmo

 

Sacro

Sacro is a high-end vegan restaurant that leaves herbivores as well as carnivores gobsmacked by its atypical, boundary-pushing dishes like the activated charcoal and mushroom empanada.

Costa Rica 6038, Palermo

 

 

Sarkis 

While not an all-out vegetarian restaurant, Sarkis serves hearty Middle Eastern food in Villa Crespo. This was one of Buenos Aires’ first ethnic restaurants when it opened in 1982. Today it’s synonymous with Armenian food in the city. Try the classics: hummus, tabbouleh, and baba ganoush.

Thames 1101, Villa Crespo

 

Donnet

A restaurant almost exclusively dedicated to mushrooms is unique, to say the least. At Donnet in Chacarita, everything is prepared without animal products or derivatives. Vegan owner Manuela Donnet was tired of eating roasted aubergine wherever she went and thus set out to create a meat-free restaurant that would appeal to vegans and carnivores alike. If you’re a mushroom lover chances are you’ll fall in love with something here.

Av. Jorge Newbery 4081, Chacarita

 

Bio Solo Organico

Bio adopts a fully green ethos, even the building is painted green. It’s the first certified organic restaurant in Argentina. A pink Buddha greets you as you enter and the aesthetic feels like eating at your healthy aunt’s house. Proving that veganism and alcohol don’t have to be mutually exclusive, there’s a selection of organic wines too.

Humboldt 2192, Palermo

 

 

Buenos Aires Verde

Raw, organic, meat-free plates take center stage at Buenos Aires Verde in Palermo. Pore over the menu, which is also available in English, and is partitioned by small tapas-like plates, raw dishes, and cooked meals. The raw tacos are a winner.

Gorriti 5657, Palermo

 

Green Eat

Green Eat focuses on healthy fast food. Think super clean salads, gluten-free sushi, and carrot-filled chicken sticks. Everything is prepared fresh each day with organic ingredients received from their carefully selected suppliers. There are branches all over the city, including Abasto Mall, Galerías Pacifico Mall, Avenida Santa Fe, and Florida. Vegetarian dishes include the Playero Slim sandwich with Gruyere and avocado, the veggie curry, the minty quinoa, and the Andean burger, a quinoa patty served with roasted mushrooms, potato, and pumpkin puree.

Various 

 

 

BUENOS AIRES RESTAURANTS FOR WINE LOVERS

 

UCO Restaurant

Uco sits within the Fierro Boutique Hotel in Palermo Hollywood, and the 300-strong wine list was curated by the head of the Argentinian Sommeliers Association. All food is prepared in-house; they even cure their own bacon and smoke Patagonian trout right on the premises. There’s indoor and outdoor seating in their garden, but spaces are limited, so reservations are advised.

Soler 5862, Palermo

 

 

Aldo’s Vinoteca

Aldo Graziani wrote the book on Argentinian wine, literally. Visit either of the master sommelier’s charming winery restaurants for an oenophile-friendly meal.

Arévalo 2032 and Rep. Árabe Siria 303, Palermo

 

VICO

An unusual, DIY experience that you’ll certainly be telling your friends about. VICO was the first wine bar in Argentina to introduce wine dispensing machines. All budgets and tastes are catered for, and everyone gets their own pass where their selections are recorded.

Gurruchaga 1149, Villa Crespo

 

 

Pain et Vin

Wine bar meets bakery at Pain et Vin. It’s the collaborative effort of an Argentine Sommelier and an Israeli chef couple. Sample their cured meats, wines by the glass, or a wine flight with three different tasting glasses.

Gorriti 5132, Palermo

 

El Querandí

Pair your wine with a tango show that covers the history of the dance. At El Querandí in San Telmo, the wine list is extensive and the historic building it’s set in makes the evening a tad more magical. Reservations are highly encouraged.

Perú 302, San Telmo

 

La Malbequería

Stepping into La Malbequería feels like an occasion in itself with a leafy canopy over a long table that’s ready to seat you and the company you keep for the dinner of your life. It gets even better. A garden tucked away further back. A day spent sipping Malbec in an enchanting garden wine bar in Argentina is a day well spent.

Gurruchaga 1418, Palermo

 

 

 

BUENOS AIRES RESTAURANTS FOR A TASTE OF EUROPE

 

Van Koning

Want an unexpected dining experience in Buenos Aires? Munch on Dutch bitterballen at Van Koning which used to be in Las Cañitas. Note that like many restaurants in Buenos Aires, it’s closed on Mondays.

Mcal Antonio José de Sucre 4399, Belgrano

  

Bar Nápoles

As previously mentioned, Avenida Caseros is lined with lots of lovely restaurants and the Italian restaurant Bar Nápoles is the quirkiest. Venture all the way to the back to uncover what’s essentially a museum of knick-knacks and random oddities like classic cars, old globes, and stone figures. The pizzas are also exceptional.

Av. Caseros 449, San Telmo

 

Lo del Francés

For a bit of France in Buenos Aires, mange at Lo del Francés, a café bistro in San Telmo. It’s set over two floors with compulsory outside seating for the warmer months, and an upstairs area for added privacy. This place has a certain je ne sais quoi and a distinctly French accent. Staff are French-speaking and there are hearty, decorative meals from different regions in France. Presentation certainly isn’t an afterthought either. When you’ve had your fill of steak, come here for something overflowing with cheese.

Av. San Juan 500, San Telmo

 

 

Valhalla Bar Vikingo

Break bread with Vikings at this themed bar in San Telmo. Expect mighty portions fit for a warrior and compulsory Viking paraphernalia like swords, armor, and hammers. Skal!

Bolívar 823, San Telmo

 

 

PERÓN-THEMED RESTAURANTS IN BUENOS AIRES

 

Perón Perón

For some, former president Juan Domingo Perón and his wife, actress-turned-First Lady María Eva Duarte (aka Evita) are a religion. Others could do without the famous political couple and Peronismo in general. For the loving fans, there’s Perón Perón, a bar restaurant with tender tributes and tender fall-off-the-bone steaks. A truly unique feat, Perón Perón has its own brand of Peronist-branded beer. Like the icon herself, the ‘Evita’ beer is blonde. Those who prefer a stronger brew may order the ‘Montonero’ pale ale, named after the ‘70s guerrilla group.

Lavalleja 1388, Palermo

 

El Santa Evita

Argentina’s love affair with Evita continues at El Santa Evita, where traditional comfort food dishes are spruced up and modernized. Feast on salteña-style empanadas, milanesa, locro (a thick Andean squash stew), and chipaguazú (corn grain cake) under the watchful eye of Evita’s large portrait.

Julián Álvarez 1479, Palermo

 

 

QUAINT CAFES & COFFEE SHOPS IN BUENOS AIRES

 

Eterna Cadencia

Buenos Aires is a literary haven boasting over 700 bookstores. This positions it as the city with the highest density of bookstores per capita globally. One remarkable bookstore in particular is Eterna Cadencia. If you didn’t peer further back into this well-stocked Palermo librería, you wouldn’t know it has a bright inner courtyard restaurant and cozy “living room” with reading chairs, cushions, and funky wall art. Some English books are available in the shop.

Honduras 5574, Palermo

 

Café Registrado

When you wish to work and have mouthwatering snacks to refuel as well, opt for Café Registrado’s Palermo branch on Calle Costa Rica. You’ll find ample tables, fantastic salads, meaty wraps, amazing desserts, and vegan options on the menu.

Various

 

Café Martinez

Café Martinez could very well be Argentina’s answer to Starbucks, as there’s seemingly one on any corner. Watch out for their budget-busting lunch specials. There’s no shortage of sockets, and nobody will bat an eyelid if you’re in there working for extended periods.

Various

 

Salvaje Bakery 

Not many bakeries are Insta-famous, but this one sure is. Salvaje’s goal is to make bread sexy again (you’ll find them with the hashtag #ourcoffeeishotterthanyours). There’s no door at this garage-turned-hotspot on the border of Palermo Hollywood. Grab one of the few outdoor tables and order the bread sample or a scrumptious cinnamon roll.

Dorrego 1829, Palermo

 

Café Rivas

If you find yourself in San Telmo with time to while away in a splendid Buenos Aires icon, make your way to Café Rivas. Purchase a book in English from the opposite bookshop and park yourself here.

Estados Unidos 302, San Telmo

 

Havanna

Havanna is known for its chocolate alfajores. It’s an old favorite with branches practically everywhere. The most iconic outpost is at El Caminito, which acts as the backdrop for many a tangoing couple.

Various

 

Tea Connection

Any Tea Connection branch is simply a delightful place to situate yourself. Their mission is to change your ideas about tea and you’ll find creative tea infusions on both the food and drinks menus. Try a frozen tea or the matcha cheesecake.

Various

 

Ninina

Museum visits can be thirsty work. Good thing there’s a Ninina branch at MALBA and two others in Palermo and Villa Urquiza. They select, roast, and prepare high-end coffees and serve coconut-drizzled alfajores and mouth-watering cakes. You’ll want to Instagram the heck out of everything.

Holmberg 2464 (Belgrano), Gorriti 4738 (Palermo) and MALBA (Palermo)

 

La Panera Rosa

Pink is the name of the game at La Panera Rosa (The Pink Bread Basket), where everything is pink beside the food. This chain comes all the way from Madrid but the menu has been suitably augmented for local tastes. Sip mate from a pink gourd or eat a milanesa off a pink plate, of course.

Various

 

 

Libros del Pasaje

This utterly quaint bookstore has checkered floors and plenty of tables for diners and remote workers. It also hosts author events throughout the year. 

Thames 1762, Palermo

 

LAB Tostadores

Serious coffee lovers should step into this laboratory, which roasts and produces its own coffee. Many flock to LAB, a hipster-filled hangout in Palermo Hollywood, for the brews but stay for the good vibes and great plates.

Humboldt 1542, Palermo

 

Atelier Fuerza

Self-taught baker Francisco Seubert set out to make sourdough bread that was different from anything he’d tasted before. The bestseller here is the Campo Fuerza bread, which has a creamy, caramelized crust. The goods here are mighty popular, so go early before everything’s gone.

Various

 

 

El Ateneo Grand Splendid

When in Buenos Aires, be sure to visit Ateneo Grand Splendid, which was hailed by National Geographic as “the world’s most beautiful bookshop.” Housed in a former theater, this literary gem features a café on the main stage for a charming literary experience. Do ascend to the top balcony for a panoramic view of the theater’s grandeur.

Avenida Santa Fe 1860, Recoleta

 

CAFES STEEPED IN HISTORY IN BUENOS AIRES

 

Café Tortoni

Be prepared to wait in line for your chance to sip or dine at the oldest established café in Buenos. Even Albert Einstein came here. Stepping into Café Tortoni is like being in the 1920s. A lot of respect is paid to the architecture of yesteryear and there’s an air of timelessness about this cafe.

Av. de Mayo 825, Centro

 

Bar Federal

Brothel turned iconic hangout, Bar Federal in San Telmo serves up unique beers and a distinctly charming atmosphere. If you’re lucky, you might nab one of the outdoor seats. Bar Federal is one of Los Notables, a group of historic bars and cafes that merge art, culture, literature, and food. These include Celta Bar, La Poesía, Bar de Cao, and Café Mangot, which all opened their doors between 1864 and 1982.

Carlos Calvo 599, San Telmo

 

Saint Moritz

When strolling on Calle Esmeralda, Confitería Saint Moritz will stop you in your tracks. Stepping into this cafe is an exercise in nostalgia with mosaic checkerboard tiles that evoke a classic tango-esque feeling of faded opulence, like much of this fair city. Pop in for a cup of tea any time of the day or have a hearty Argentinian dish. Celebrated writer Jorge Luis Borges lived in the neighborhood and famously frequented this corner spot.

Esmeralda 890, Retiro

  

La Poesía 

La Poesía (The Poetry) just draws you in. This charming San Telmo café restaurant was the meeting place of the city’s artists, intellectuals, musicians, and poets, granting it an air of romance. Tango lyricist Horacio Ferrer wrote a famous poem called “Lulu” for his wife, whom he met right there. One of the tables has a plaque commemorating their encounter.

Chile 502, San Telmo

 

 

La Perla

When visiting Caminito in La Boca, pay a visit to La Perla, a notable cafe that remains relatively unchanged after eight decades. Its external signage is laden with fileteado, a decorative style of flowery writing that’s unique to Buenos Aires and its tango culture. On the inside, there are gramophones, antique typewriters, and tango memorabilia. Dining here is the best kind of time warp.

Av. Don Pedro de Mendoza 1899, La Boca

 

 

 

THE BEST BUENOS AIRES BARS

 

PLACES FOR CRAFT BEER LOVERS IN BUENOS AIRES

 

Valk Taproom

Argentina’s industrial brews leave a lot to be desired. Luckily for hopheads, a craft beer explosion means artisan beer haunts can now be found on most throbbing streets. For a taste of lively Plaza Serrano, visit Valk Taproom for your beer fix. ¡Salud!

Jorge Luis Borges 1654, Palermo

 

 

Temple Craft

Temple invites you to “join the craft revolution”. As such, they’ve taken over Buenos Aires with multiple branches, over multiple floors, with multiple delicious brews. You’ll recognize their snazzy murals and overflowing barflies.

Various

 

On Tap

Get up to 20 different beers on tap from various Argentinian microbreweries at this popular hipster haunt with branches in Palermo and Colegiales. Three words: spoilt for choice.

Various 

 

Antares

You’ll find Antares dotted all over Buenos Aires, far from its humble beginnings in a garage back in the 90s. Their motto is “con cerveza no hay tristeza” (with beer there is no sadness). Go on and get hoppy with it.

Various

 

 

BierLife

Beer is a way of life at BierLife. That’s why they put it in all their food, too. This old San Telmo house has a patio and countless breakaway areas to enjoy its broad beer collection. Perhaps try a pumpkin pinta on for size.

Humberto 1º 670, San Telmo

 

La Birrería

La Birrería will cater to all your beer needs six days a week at any of their rocking brewpubs. You’ll find them in Palermo (Hollywood and Viejo), Puerto Madero, Las Cañitas, Barrio Chino, San Telmo, and a stone’s throw from the Obelisk on Avenida Corrientes.

Various

 

Strange Brewing

If you find yourself in Colegiales on a Friday night, absolutely swing by Strange Brewing. Trendy locals meet and mingle at this brewpub with a pumping DJ on weekends.

Delgado 658, Colegiales

 

 

BUENOS AIRES ROOFTOP BARS AND RESTAURANTS

 

Salón 1923 at Palacio Barolo

One of the most outstanding buildings in Buenos Aires and perhaps all of Latin America, Palacio Barolo was designed by Mario Palanti, who crammed it with numerous overt references to Dante Alighieri’s poem The Divine Comedy. Salón 1923 is the rooftop lounge on the 16th floor of Palacio Barolo. There’s an indoor and outdoor area, but naturally, the latter takes the cake. It’s without question one of the most spectacular rooftops in BA, if only for the Old World feeling alone. Book in advance.

Av. de Mayo 1370, Centro

 

 

Sky Bar

Sip in style to a slick live music backdrop at Sky Bar on the 13th floor of Hotel Pulitzer. The rooftop is only open in the summer months, and it’s mighty popular with the after-work crowd and discerning Porteños. Expect anything from smooth house music to ukulele sets.

Maipú 907, Retiro

 

Dome Rooftop Bar

Why not pair your sightseeing around Congreso Nacional and Avenida de Mayo with a visit to Dome Rooftop Bar on the sixth floor of the Tango de Mayo boutique hotel?

Av. de Mayo 1396, Monserrat

 

Trade Skybar

Touch the sky at Trade Sky Bar where you can enjoy Gatsby-esque decor and 360 views of Puerto Madero, the Obelisk, and downtown Buenos Aires. It’s set over two floors in the Comega building in Microcentro and it’s very sleek indeed.

Av. Corrientes 222, floor 19, Centro

 

 

BUENOS AIRES COCKTAIL BARS AND SPEAKEASIES

 

Verne Club

You’ll be thoroughly impressed by Verne Club which is one of the classiest cocktail bars in Buenos Aires. It’s owned by a self-styled cocktail historian and draws its inspiration from Jules Verne and all his wacky adventures. The “Around the World in 80 Cocktails” menu is delightful, as is the outdoor back garden and dim-lit 1920s jazz club vibe. 

Avenida Medrano 1475, Palermo

 

Florería Atlántico

You’ll want to try everything at Florería Atlántico, a speakeasy in Retiro. After being funneled through a flower shop and a refrigerator door, you’ll be rewarded with a collection of creative cocktails categorized by geographic provenance: Polish vodka, English gin, and sherry drinks from Spain. There are photogenic tapas bites to nibble on as well.

Arroyo 872, Retiro

 

Victoria Brown

The loitering crowds will be the only giveaway that behind the doors at 4827 Costa Rica lies an uber cool “bar oculto” (speakeasy). Fashioned after an old whisky factory, there’s a trendy utility feel here and thankfully, an extensive list of delicious cocktails.

Costa Rica 4827, Palermo

 

Milión

Rumour has it that this Recoleta cocktail bar is haunted. However, that shouldn’t keep you from enjoying the spoils of this elegant, multi-level Belle Epoque mansion with fabulous gardens.

Parana 1048, Recoleta

 

878

878 in Villa Crespo was once crowned the best bar in all of Argentina. It’s atmospheric with moody lighting, exposed brick walls, and high ceilings. Happy hour drinks are served between 7 and 9 PM. As the city’s first speakeasy, you’ll need to get your Sherlock Holmes on to find it.

Thames 878, Villa Crespo